Champions from the lighter side of Hungarian Wine
February 18, 2013 Rozanne Woodward 0 Comments
Folks, I am a committed lover of reds. I do appreciate other wines, but rarely choose them save to properly complement a meal when entertaining others. When alone or not suggesting anything, well… I break convention to favor my tastes. However, that predilection was sorely tested recently during the debut wine tasting at Kempinski’s BORterasz (which will be reviewed in due course). The jury at this trial of my tastes? None other than the offerings of Légli, 2010’s Hungarian Winemaker of the Year, and 2008’s Winemaker of the Winemakers, St. Andrea.
he first challenge to my sensibilities came from 2010 Rosés. Légli’s is made from Merlot, Kékfrankos and young Pinot Noir. I was surprised by the richness, though the finish was clean and fresh, like a bright white. St. Andrea’s, made from Kékfrankos and Pinot Noir, fermented separately in steel and wood, then blended to age together, was unique, sporting a buttery woody flavor that vanished with the clean finish.
My red roots were turning light, and the Chardonnay round proved no respite for my biases. Légli’ Landord was at once fruity (in a tropical way) and creamy, a touch of bite, with acids only flashing briefly before fading sweetly. St Andrea’s Ferenchegy sported a lighter carriage, nectarine and apple flavors, and was more acidic, finishing with spice. The Pinot Noir offerings reminded me I would return to my reds. But for the summer, I will dive into the whites and Rosés without a fuss.